|| Adam and north faces
september - october 2014
This year was amazing as it comes to mixed climbing conditions at the most famous alpine north faces like Grandes Jorasses or Matterhorn.
They were hundreds of climbers heading towards those walls to fulfill their dreams, Adam was one of them.
There are some of the routes he climbed this year, and of course the pictures!
17.07 Grandes Jorasses / Le Linceul, V WI 4 M4 (TD+) 1100m (750m), 15h to peak with Marcin Rutkowski
23.09 Tour Ronde Rebuffat Gully, II,4, 350m + 150m to peak, 5h, Gerald Straizinger
26.09 Grandes Jorasses, Combination of Polish route and Michto, V, 5, M5 800m, 13h, Gerald Straizinger, Mario Straberger
31.10 Matterhorn, North face, Schmitt Route, TD, V, WI4, M4,1200m, 12,5h, Gerald ,Straizinger
03.11 Col des Pelerins, Rebuffat-Terray, V, 5, ok M6, 550m, ok 7,5h, Gerald Straizinger
Have a look at the pictures!
|| Holidays 2014
Pictures from our holidays! It was a bit cold, a bit snowy, but still great! We were climbing in Val Ferret, Envers des Aiguilles and Val d'Orco.
Granite, crack climbing, jamming...we love it! Have a look at the PICS!
|| Last six months
What happened within last six months? For me - a lot. In February I had a hip arthroscopy. Was it a good decision for my problems with hips?
Still don't know. Recovery is still processing. Meanwhile, you can have a look at the PICS
|| New Years Eve 2013/14
Few pics from New Years Eve vacation we spent in Südtirol. We had a bit ice climbing and some nice skitours.
|| Weekend in Ost and Südtirol
Few pics from weekend we spent in Ost (Villgraten) and Südtirol (Pragsertal and Travenanzes). A very few places there were good conditions for ice climbing and
|| Weekend in Dolomites
Five days after coming back from Canada we spent weekend climbing in Dolomites, Sella. Weather was great, climbing as well,
I can only recommend the routes we did: Via la moto dal Sella and Delenda Carthago.
|| Canada: Squamish, Vancouver & Victoria
Some pictures from short trip to Canada: one week in Squamish with Ilona, one week in Victoria for a conference.
Both things were really fine!:)
|| Chamonix 2013
Few pictures from climbing in Chamonix this year. The weather was great, wish we had more time to climb more orange-granite routes! Next year!
|| Powder 2012
Powder alert this year! Yeah!:) No ice climbing, but great skiing! Drop in!:) Check out the photos!
|| Yosemite 2011
This year we've decided to have a real climbing holidays, what means: sun!, great rock, 5 minutes to the walls, beer every day:)
So, the place was obvious: Yosemite! We spent great time there, three weeks were much to less to even get used to this type of climbing!
So we come back soon there:)
Photos here:part I
and part II
|| Weekends in Chamonix
This summer was not exactly so as we were dreaming - because of Adam's work, my angina and
other stuff - we had to do all our plans at the weekends. And as our plans were connected with Chamonix than we manged to visit
the place twice. The first time: perfect weather for 3 days! Walker..?But it quite lot of snow in the route and..i'm not THAT fit after angina:-(
So: Anouk! Quite a long route (780m), difficulties about 6a-6a+ all the time, max 6b+ (Adam did RP). 20.00 we're at the top
and the whole way down, and the glacier and crevasse. 12h climbing, 24h from and to refugee. Photos check out here.
2 weeks later Chamonix again,
conditions at Grand Jorasses - just perfect, we're fit, Walker route is waiting! But there's a danger on the other side: glacier
by descent, just waiting to fall down. Officialy: NO ACCESS. So we decide to chose sun and go to Requine refugee, where we climb 850m long route
Le soleil a rendez-vous avec la lune.
The first part is equiped with bolts, the second with your own gear. We could be have
been really fast, but the pitch before last one-we lost the right way (you should go to the left and avoid big chimney!). The next day-pretty tired,
tried to do something, but the weather was worse and worse so we went down, than went to swiss and than the weather was even worser;)
Photos are here
||Far, far away in Kirgisistan..
where no asphalt exists and people far only with broken cars a climbing paradise is hidden up in Kara-su and Ak-su valley in Pamiro-Alaj mountains. But... it,s not easy to get to the heaven and I have to say it clearly: those who can speak russish (or any other slawetish language) will do that faster and..cheaper! Much cheaper... Anyway: it’s so worth to go there: 1000 meter granit pyramids with great crags, roofs, slabs... The best way is to look up at our photos
(and part II)
words are not enough.
The only thing, which has to be said: don’t belive in magic sunny weather stories! They DON’T happened always!;) To get more information about this region (topos) just mail us
||Weekend in Dachstein
To welcom summer season we deciced to visit Dachstein mountains. Meeting snowboarders at the car park, we thought, that
sunny weather was not the best for our minds. Fortunately, after few hours climbing everything was clear:
there was still a snow at the glacier and all ski-lifts were working! Those people are crazy! The next day we did Maixkante - 700 meters
with 100 meters of wet chimney, partially equiped. We reached the top at 4 p.m, still having the chance to get cable, which could bring us to our car in 10 minutes.
Yeah... And than we descent directly - and you should go in west direction 50 meters and descent from there from old wires!
We said goodbay to our last cable and it took 2 hours to get down...
||Gesause - still beautiful:-)
As Adam had accident with finger :-( and he has now climbing embargo than is nothing else to do - just climbing;)
But we take only easy routs now - but they are still so beautiful. On sunday we did 500 meters long route called
Sudostschulter on Kleiner Odstein wall - the best V UIAA grade route we have ever did. The next day was Festkogel wall with Peterkafure route.
Let's say great view from the top;)
You can look at
||Spring begins in...Val di Mello
Checking out climbing conditions in Val di Mello - thanks to helpful italian guy and his short email "perfect condonditions!" :-) - we
spent four days in sunny valley surrounded by snowy peaks. Great climbing, wonderful granite and cracks! That's the place we'll going to visit a lot!
Have a look at
We wanted Alps, we wanted ice-climbing, but what we got was sunny climbing in Finale Ligure. Not such a bad choice;)
Well-known spot, but we discovered it for the first time and although it could sometimes crowded - you can always find something
quieter or just forget all those people and climb, climb, climb... And after that have a rest at the seaside... :-)
Photos to check out are just
||High Tatras again!
There is no such a climbing in Austria. Tatra in winter - that's unique, something special, that you can find only in Poland or Slowakai.
I've heard that in Scotland winter climbing is similar, but...they don't have such a big walls and the weather is allways sh..
So, before Christmas, I was making cookies and Adam went climbing! He had a fight with our sleeping knight (secret code;) and was successful:)
After Christmas we spent whole week in Slowakai in Kiezmarska Valley: did four routes and the one was really long - about 500 meters.
We had a great time with our friends and had a great Sylvester party with slovakish music hits;)Photos
It was snowing, it was shining, there so many people actually skiing, but we didn't have time. And then, once upon a time
came that day and we went to Sekauer Tauern ski-touring. Of course weather was against us, but we didn't care.
Descent were great, there was about a half meter of fresh snow! I looked like a snowman, but Thomas and Alex are so good in skiing. Also Adam -
he was defenitely not so white as I!;) Picture in gallery
|Istria in Slovenien?
We really wanted to go to Istria this time. Unfortunaately... I forgot my passport:-(
OK, then WELCOME BACK SLOVENIEN! This country is really famous from Osp, Misja Pec, Kotecnik but that time we chose Vipava. Bit more quite place, not so big, but - like always in Slovenien -
we had to admit, that 6 grade can be REALLY hard! And we saw people just starting their climbing course at such 6 we got answer to our question:
how the slovenien people are so good in climbing?:) Some photos
Hey! What we've got here? Great sunny weather, enough climbing (is it possible???)
so...yeah! Glockner! It's waiting since 1 year for us. About 10 p.m. we are in refugee, very happy and excited and suprised that
having no reservation is such a big suprise for refugee service. We get our beds, but it's so hot, impossible to sleep.I "wake up"
with headache, which stays during whole climbing with me:-( We try to be fast, but all the guids are just running with their clients.
At the top: beautiful view, lots of people. What do you need to climb there: rope, helmet, few draws, crampons, ice axe was useless (but it depends on climbing conditions!!!)there's a fixed rope in two "crux" pitches;)
A lot of people are soloing this route.
and some pictures
||Arco, Via Vertigine
And it should have been so beautiful... BIG wall, we and fame... And what went out? Our lack of experience. And new experience. When you want to climb technically and, what is more, on SUCH walls, you have to be prepeared. And we weren't;) We did the first part (very good equipped with new bolts), that means 500 meters but slab! The huge overhang was above. Night on a tree, first technicall pitch and... we're going back! Good aiders, etriers and gloves are neccessary! - not that what we had. Tuesday beautiful climbing on Monte Colt. Photos in Galerry
Marmolada, Cinquantenario Fisi (Gogna), 6b+, TD, 1140m, 3xA0, 12,5h
We were very determinated (our second trial!) and however the weather was not perfect, we tried. Cold!!! But possible to climb. The first part of the route was really OK, but the second had a lot of loose rocks. Adam didn't care about whole thing, was just climbing up. I was trying to keep climbing so fast as he. It was very difficult to find the right way in the fog/mist ant in darkness. Bivac at the top together with very friendly Columbians. Bivacoo was about 100 meterrs below and we didn't see it! At the top you have to go in west direction and at he end turn ti the north. Descent from 1 spit (twice) and left at the galcier. Tricams-very useful!atne! Photos in Gallery
Short trip, but really great! Saturday: polished rocks in Lofer, exactly the same type of climbing as in Cracow! Sunday: direction Sonneck. Only 1,5h ascent. We wanted to do Sonnenpfeiler
, but it must be VERY popular route with MANY climbing teams. Fortunately, we had the second topo with us, route called Clear Water
. Really beautiful climbing, the best in Austria this year. But: don't forget to take friends or stoppers with! Photos in Gallery
14-27.07.2007 Trip to Italian Alps - reverse from Chamonix. Very good trip! There is a lot more about that here, but only in polnish:-( Photos in Gallery
||Chamonix again |
1-6.07.2007 Some photos in Gallery to look at. And to see how wonderfull is winter in summer. And how brave we are to climb in such a condition;)